Underwater Viewing - The Camera 1 - 2 Punch

Cameras are a key part of Tony Roach’s strategy for jumbo perch.

We’ve lived in a world with underwater cameras for several years now, and though technology has raced forward, the basic video feed of a swimming fish can captivate and inform nearly any angler.  As cameras have become lighter, smaller, and more crisp, new advancements in sonar, live-imaging, and side-scanning have entered the fray as well.  All of which makes for some tough decisions when budgeting for how best we can fool a fish.

Tony Roach is no stranger to that game, as he fishes across northern Minnesota each winter, doing his best to put clients continuously on panfish, perch, and walleyes.  It should come as no surprise then that underwater cameras are a key part of his strategy, and have been since their inception.  His camera approach mimics his now-famous “ice-trolling” concept of roaming select structural elements while drilling holes continuously, in an effort to both locate fish and stay on them.  Few have drilled as many holes in the ice as Tony, and fewer yet have followed that up with as much underwater viewing as he has either. 

The upshot is a 1-2 punch of underwater viewing that focuses on two main parts; the finding, and then catching, each of which utilizes different strong-suits of cameras vs. traditional sonar or even newer live-imaging devices. 

Finding

Perhaps the most crucial portion is finding them, and cameras accomplish that goal in a variety of ways.  The most obvious one, seeing a fish, shouldn’t be understated, as other means of finding fish rarely reveal speciation.  Many an angler has chased suckers while thinking a walleye was the belly-to-bottom target they saw on the graph.  Tony says, “We take out the camera when something isn’t adding up on sonar, and also just when we’re searching down a break.” 

Certain species like perch, are curious and actually drawn to the camera.  “We’re looking for the better jumbos, and even though the graph can be full, we drop cameras to stay on big fish,” says Roach.  He recalls a recent trip to Winnie where perch were everywhere, but better fish were tough to stay on.  Tony says, “There was a blizzard of perch down there, and we talked to other anglers that didn’t do well because they couldn’t tell the difference from small perch to good ones on their graph.  We just drilled until the camera revealed more jumbos.” 

Tony uses a camera for other scouting purposes too, especially for panfish.  “Standing green cabbage will always be great places to look for gills, but it’s hard to determine cabbage from other less desirable lake weeds without a camera,” says Roach.  These can be shallower locations too, where the sonar cone angle means a relatively small footprint on the lake bottom.  Translated, that means cameras can cover more area, especially when the water is clear.  “You can pick up on the structure and condition of the weeds too,” continues Roach, noting that pockets, points, and inside turns in a healthy weedbed are hard to detect in any other way.

Tools of choice for the finding game include lightweight, pocket-sized screens with equally small ducers.  “It’s just easier to jump hole to hole with these models vs. the larger lunch-box style versions,” says Tony.  I’d agree, in saying that the best underwater camera is one you’ll use.  Smaller versions are easier to deploy, so even if the screens aren’t huge, you’re much more likely to use them when searching for schools of fish across larger areas. 

Catching

Of course, catching more fish is the primary reason anyone buys an underwater cameras to begin with, but there’s a pile of ways you can extend that idea.  At face value, simply seeing a fish inhale your bait gives you a distinct advantage, but this is especially true on tough bites.  I recall a bite on Devil’s Lake where perch were thick, but would only eat when a live minnow was set on bottom, made to struggle against the weight of the jig that secured him.  Perch would nose down, stare, and eventually pin the minnow to bottom, leaving the angler without a camera non-the-wiser to any perch’s presence. 

Tony notes similar experiences with perch, “They’re the fish you love to hate – they can rise to a bait so quickly, like they’re going to crush it, and yet sometimes you can barely see or feel the bite.”  Whether targeting finicky perch or other species, Roach is quick to admit that cameras make him a better angler.  “Just having one down allows me to study how the fish are biting, and that can change from one hour to the next, or one area to another,” says Tony.  “Sometimes we ‘sort’ by only allowing larger fish to eat the jig, and other times we’re using the camera to see what jigging technique will trigger them, it’s an invaluable tool.”

I’ve also noticed how well an underwater camera can train your jigging stroke.  I heard Clam-Pro and guide Jason Durham speak about unnatural jigging motions by saying, “you’d look at a hamburger suspiciously if it suddenly jumped to the ceiling too.”  I think underwater viewing can certainly prevent and inform that, as any new lure I test comes under close visual scrutiny with the camera.  It’s helped unlock key twitches, stops, and swings to popular lures that have always done well for me, making them even better when a fish comes into frame.

Here’s where you can look towards a larger screen camera model, whether lure-training or trying to trick a bluegill.  Camera screen size is really the premium when it comes to stationary viewing, and new HD models are great for the wheelhouse too.  For select units, HDMI cables can transfer a true-HD signal to TV units in the house, such that picture quality is preserved instead of stretched and blown out when taking it to the big screen.  All of which could be argued is more entertainment than educational, but we’ve all grown tired of pixelated views of either photos or video, such that what you get from the experience can be limited.        

Whatever your model of choice, I don’t see underwater cameras going away anytime soon.  They provide the most cost effective way to get a fish’s-eye view of the underwater world, and capitalize on images that only the human eye can interpret.  Learn to use them for both finding AND catching, and you’ll soon consider them just as important as your flasher. 

Choosing the Right Ice Fishing Sled

What are you pulling? Different designs serve different purposes on ice.

Pictured - The Otter Sport Sled - a perfect hand-tow model.

Ever thought about the best sled for hauling your gear onto the ice?  If you’re like most people, it’s not a strong consideration, at least until it’s spills over at the launch, runs into the back of your ATV, or weighs you down when pulling it through snow.  It’s a gear category that most of us really take for granted, even after disaster strikes, as most of us tend to make due with whatever we have.  Like many things, I’ve learned the hard way that not all sleds are created equal, and depending on how you’ll be using it, some features lend themselves to success better than others.

The Cheapie

I’ve towed ice gear in everything from red plastic kids sleds to drywall mud mixing utility tubs.  The chief upside is price and availability.  Chances are, you’ve got one laying around, and if you’re pulling by hand over fairly even terrain and little snow, it may serve your purposes just fine.  Downsides are plenty however, from the way they pull over deep snow (plowing through or floating unevenly across the top), to how well they secure your gear inside.  No slopes, no high speeds or with machines, and no expensive gear should be some basic rules of the road with these sleds.  They’re the first to disintegrate, quickest to frustrate, and fastest to end up back in the garage from my experience.  If you ice fish or winter recreate even only a few times per season, you can probably do better.

The Hand Tow

In terms of price, you’re looking at a sled that’s mid-range.  They tend to be large, but not overly so, as the poly rope that’s typically attached is meant to be hand-pulled in a variety of conditions.  The sled is heavier duty, but again, not to the point of feeling overweight, as the main goal of these sleds is for foot traffic and transport.  You want higher sides if possible, along with a good lip at the edge all around, such that you can use bungee straps or other means to secure a load over the rough stuff. 

I’m in the camp that everyone should own at least one of these kinds of sleds, for a variety of reasons, including the off-season.  These sleds are almost always under 100 bucks, and can haul over dry land and snow just the same.  The angle of attack on the front of them allows for better towing in deep snow, and good grooves running the length of them help it to track straight behind you as well.  They’ll float a deer across a small river, and haul landscaping plants around the yard.   

You may wish to upgrade the rope to something that feels a bit better to bare hands, and also make it longer.  Easier yet, a strap system that secures around your waist, paired with that longer lead makes pulling a breeze over longer distances.  There’s a million uses, but these improvements apply pretty well to most applications.

The Machine Tow

If you haul gear around the ice by snowmobile or ATV, the sled you need is entirely different than the first two mentioned.  Higher speeds, more torque and tension, along with the temptation to tow heavier items requires something made specifically for the job.  For that reason, roto-molded is the only way to go.  It’ll cost you more money, but the investment ensures even thickness of the sled throughout, especially in corners, angles, and pockets where it counts.  Most other sleds are thinner and weaker in these locations.  The manufacturing procedure adds some weight, but when behind a machine, you won’t notice it, yet have the durability advantage for your efforts.

Next you need to think about how you’ll be attaching the sled to your machine of choice.  Again, my opinion is fairly strong in saying you need a rigid hitch system.  Long ropes are great until you stop suddenly or are on glare ice, in which case your gear quickly becomes a projectile that slams into the back of your machine, or catches and edge and flips over.  Rigid steel bar hitch systems completely prevent that and are the premium option for towing.  Make sure you’re using an appropriately sized pin and key that adequately secures said hitch to the machine, as looking for pins in the snow is the worst.

Equally important is how the hitch system attaches to the sled.  Bolt through options, though common, put too much pressure on small areas of the sled, often resulting in failure.  A better design is the hitch-pocket system, molded into the sled, that utilizes a pin pushed through the sled, hitch, then sled again.  Pressure is distributed evenly throughout the front of the sled, rather than at two individual points, making it far more durable and trustworthy. 

From here, you can consider hyfax runners that wear out before the bottom of your sled will.  If you go over gravel, concrete, or any rough patches with regularity, these pay for themselves in time.  So too do travel covers that secure the load inside of the sled, keeping it relatively snow free and dry while you pull.  If you’re not worried about it floating, I drill a single small hole in each of the small longitudinal wells in the sled at the back end.  This allows any water that was trapped inside to escape in my garage by simply propping up the front of the sled slightly. 

Choose a purpose-driven sled this winter, and enjoy the benefits no matter how you fish or recreate.  Especially if you’ve purchased some nicer ice gear over the years, consider it an investment in the whole setup. 

Trash On Ice - Time to Clean Up our Act

Photo courtesy MN DNR.

At the end of last ice season, I read a disturbing first-hand account of a lakeshore owner who spent a few days picking up trash on her hometown lakes.  She was careful not to accuse any group or point fingers, and simply stated everything she had found immediately after the ice receded in South Central Minnesota.  It mimics what I’ve seen in the springtime as well, from beachheads of washed up 1lb propane cylinders, to dead fish and worse, she didn’t reveal many surprises to anyone who’s walked around open water immediately following ice season. 

Most of the items she found had some relation to alcohol or tobacco products, from empty beer cans or bottles, to cigarette butts, packs, and wrappers.  Again, it’s not an affront to those who legally enjoy their use, but it is a direct assault on anglers who Illegally discard them.  Littering carries a fine, but unfortunately is rarely ticketed, which is why self-policing among us anglers should be common practice.

The next most common thing she found was anything and everything related to human excrement.  While it’s neither fun to write about or read, we all know it’s a fact of life, so why is it rare that we would prepare for such an event?  Actual feces, toilet paper, paper towels littered shorelines, as did many plastic bags filled with poop.  Anyone with animals or pets would know that we’ve been acting like one by doing our business and not cleaning up after ourselves.

Also common were fish-house related items, as if more smoking guns were required to make the case.  Lots of blocking material and fish house materials such as foam, roofing, hole cut-outs, plastic, and furniture pieces were among the mess discovered.  Random trash items from candy-bar wrappers, receipts, tackle packaging, plastic utensils, and minnow buckets were also top items found on several lakeshores.  There was even an old football, plenty of beef jerky, and soiled underwear washed ashore at the end of March on several of these lakes. 

She went on to express how heartbreaking it was to see the same people who enjoy these resources be the ones that polluted them.  While describing how these were the same waters she learned to fish on, she talked about how fish and wildlife suffer in such a scenario.  Kudos to her for doing something about it, and I think it’s high-time we each start doing something about it also.  Knowing that this is the beginning of the season, and litter patrol starts now, not later, here’s a few things I think we can all do a better job at.

Leading by Example – Younger generations learn by how their elders act, and if it’s acceptable behavior for family members, then it’s how they’ll proceed.

Make a Plan – Just like you wouldn’t fish without a flasher, you should never be caught without a trashbag or three.  Consider them standard issue for anglers everywhere, and make sure to use them.  If you know you’re going to be cooking on the ice, or staying for a period of time, make a plan for how you’ll be handling food scraps and human waste.  Bags and buckets are simple and cheap. 

Re-usable Options – Instead of a plastic grocery bag, haul your food out in a cloth one.  Don’t throw-away 1lb propane cylinders, look to the refillable options.  Small plastic flies around in wind and snow, so repackage your snacks at home without all the wrappers. 

Carry a Chisel – So often I see the excuse “it’s frozen in.”  Whether it be by slush or water on the ice, you can chisel out almost anything with some work and determination.  It could be corner blocks for your fish-house, or fabric you tore from a portable shelter, just remember to chisel it out if you brought it on.

Public Shaming – I say this only slightly in jest, as a few choice comments to friends or strangers alike can have a profound impact.  Explore their guilty side by reminding them that their actions are unacceptable in whatever humorous (or non-humorous) way you can.  You don’t have to be angry, combative, or even negative, but it’s all of our duty to make sure we keep this place clean.  When all else fails, pick up their mess and let them know you did it, reminding them that even the neighbor’s dog isn’t allowed to poop on their lawn; at least without some acrimony. 

Influence Policy – This could be at a local or state level to include trash receptacles at landings.  In the past, these options have been difficult due to illegal dumping of trash at these sites, but some of the more popular waters in Minnesota, like Upper Red Lake, have had to find ways to fund a trash facility.  Without it, they’d be swimming in refuse come spring.  Lake associations would do well to try to fundraise for such efforts, though I completely realize the inequity that already exists with local lakeshore owners cleaning up messes, and now funding their prevention of pollution.  

Sadly, my fear is that someday we become prohibited from enjoying that which we consider a common right, simply because the exercising of it creates too big of a mess.        

Photo Courtesy MN DNR.

Photo Courtesy Guy Cunningham.

How to Grip an Ice Rod

Here’s my preferred grip about 80% of the time.

Photo Credit - Matt Addington Photography

It’s probably nuts to suggest that there’s an improper way to pick up a jigglestick and catch fish, but I’ll stop short of that by saying there’s some methods better than others.  Far be it from me to tell another person how to grip their favorite ice fishing rod, but over the years I’ve found it’s these details that can really translate to additional fish.  I’ll cover a few of them based on rod and reel type, but also explain advantages of one over another.

Pistol Grip

Pistol Grip

If you clutch the back of the spinning reel seat between thumb and fore-finger, you may be a pistol-gripper.  For anglers that sight-fish, or otherwise really lean over the hole and closer to your electronics, the “pistol” is a great means of jigging and hooksetting.  Anglers I know that favor this method feel like they have better control of the bait while holding it like they do a pen or pencil.  For them, it translates into finer jigging strokes and ultimate detail work, especially on finicky panfish. 

If your head is leaning forward over the ice hole, then the pistol also aids your hook-setting ability.  Rather than raising your entire arm when its already near your ear, you save wear and tear on the top of your shelter (and rod blanks) by simply flicking your wrist like pointing to the sky.  If you’re a leaner or studier of the graph, this is probably the best grip for you.

Of course it’s not the greatest for reeling, especially if you have long fingers or fat hands.  Big digits get in the way of bringing fish top-side, and at least for this guy, it’s proved cumbersome in fighting especially large fish.  That said, I know some incredible guides and other ice enthusiasts that only grip an ice rod this way.  They’ve outfished me in this manner as many times or more than I’ve outfished them.

Palming

Palming

This comes into play with the rod-end mounted fly or round multiplier reels.  When I’m using this type of rod and reel, as a righty, my right hand cups the right side of the reel in a form of pistol gripping.  It was a grip of necessity back when I fished more horse-hair, light-poundage line on the much better drag systems offered in those little fly reels.  To keep the arbor from spinning, you needed to palm the reel on hookset while feathering back to allow slip if you drill something big. 

The hookset here is a twist and lift scenario, where you open and extend your hand while lifting the arm.  It’s a quick set once practiced, and I really prefer it anytime a round arbor reel like this is involved.  I don’t prefer this grip with a spinning reel, as unlike the round reels, fingers will be in the way.

Standard Grip – Finger Up

Back when you really had to look to find ice rods with any sensitivity, a finger on the blank was your secret weapon.  Whether paired with a high end custom rod, or whatever you inherited from your grandpa’s 5-gallon bucket of gear, a finger-up offered both better feel and even better jigging strokes.  Today, this is the method I prefer about 80% of the time when not either sight-fishing or using a round reel.  In my mind, it offers comfort and control, while giving you the best flexibility in a fight with big fish. 

It’s more natural for many people to grip an ice rod this way, but perhaps not with a forefinger up on the blank.  For that reason, the custom ice rods of today that allow you to tape your own reel wherever you’d like, are key to the system.  I tape mine mostly forward, giving me the ability to keep the pad of my pointer finger on blank most of the time.  Normal jigging is unaffected, but subtle finger taps on the blank, as well as squeezes to the rod handle itself allow you to impart some serious subtlety.  If you’ve never done it, try getting into the habit of putting a finger on the blank and see if it doesn’t translate to better bite detection.  Why let the vibration travel through cork when you can get it direct from the blank and make a decision that much faster?

No matter which method you utilize, put some thought into how you go about the business of jigging, bite detection, and hookset.  It might feel wholly unnatural at first, but could make all the difference when the bite is really off.   

2019 Ice Reel Review

The combination of the St. Croix CCI Search Bait Rod and this reel makes for a dynamite Jigging Rap/Walleye setup! - Photograph by Matt Addington

2019 Ice Reel Review

Over the years, I’ve owned a pile of ice rods, each of them with some type of reel strapped on for about any species that swims under ice.  Most perform quite well to be honest, though there’s increasing competition in the space for who is top of the heap.  All of which is a bit mis-leading, because it’s hard to crown any-one reel brand or size the true “winner,” as it all depends on what kind of ruler you use to do the measuring.

With that in mind, here’s what I look for in a good ice reel.  Note that these criteria are solely my own, and you may have a different litmus test for what’s the best.  I tend to focus on the following attributes, in this order:

• Cold Weather Performance – An ice reel needs to operate on, well….ice.  You’d be surprised how many ice reels gum up in extreme cold, and how many more have drag issues when taken back and forth between warm and cold.  Of course, these scenarios play out on ice daily, and because so many manufacturers like to freezer test then slap approval on a product, there’s plenty on the market that don’t operate well.  Ball bearings be damned, I’ve had some high count ball bearing reels that goo-up when it gets cold.

• Price – Especially with ice reels, few species require you spend up the chain to get a quality performer.  There are specialty exceptions, but the price vs. performance curve really starts to plateau at $60-70.  There are also some great reels at half that price, so you really don’t have to break the bank to get a great ice reel.

• Drag – Better drags are what you tend to get for more money, but you can tweak drags with aftermarket carbon fiber discs, so even poorer drags can be upgraded pretty cheap.  For the most part, I’m concerned with quality drag when it comes to large perch and up.  Trophy caliber predators like walleye, pike, lakers, and the like require a really good drag.  You’ll simply pay more for better reels with better drags, and if you’re targeting these species, you should.   

• Weight – Most ice reels these days are all within a few ounces of each other, but with the increasing sensitivity and weight-savings of custom rods these days, every ounce matters.  It affects the balance of the rod, where I’ll mount them, and ultimately can make or break any combination of rod and reel you have. 

• Ball Bearings – I don’t care.  There, I said it.  To be more accurate, I care, but there’s so much misleading information on what ball bearings do for you, location of quality ones matters more than sheer number of them placed inside of a reel.  That’s information you get through supreme nerdery and lots of experience, and even then, the above criteria tend to sort the best from the rest before we ever get down to ball bearings. 

Here’s a few of my favorites:

The Panfish/Value Play –

Shimano Sienna 500 – Let’s start with the O.G. of lean/mean ice reels in the Sienna.  Mind you, it’s not the best, but it was never designed to be.  It’s a good reel, for a decent price, that’s been proven for most of my panfish setups.  Can you do better?  Oh yeah, and the drag should be updated too, as it’s sluggish in extreme cold, then too forgiving back in the shack.  Still, it’s a volume over quality scenario if you’re putting numbers of reels on a pile of panfish rods.  To achieve quality, I probably wouldn’t look to spend less than the price of a Sienna.

Okuma Ceymar C10 – You get a lot in this reel, and it’s performed well for me on ice with a few upgrades from the Sienna.  I especially like the oversized bail, as I can be pretty tough on my stuff like most ice anglers.  The drag is just like the Sienna’s – oiled felt – though I didn’t think it benefitted from a custom disc drag I put in it as much as the Sienna did.  Advantage Ceymar.  That said, I haven’t owned these as long, so I have no idea how well they’ll hold up over time.  Advantage Sienna.  Call it a push?

Sportscar Edition

If you’re looking for the best of the best, and cost isn’t as much a consideration, consider the Tatula in the 1000 size, especially if your whole game is about performance on big predators.  This is an open-water reel that’s found its way on my biggest and baddest rods, both on account of its extreme weight-savings (it’s lighter than almost all other 500 series reels), but also because of its buttery smooth drag and bigger frame.  You’ve got the size without the weight, and I’ve got fat hands so this thing isn’t a tiny knuckle-buster, but rather a dream to fight big fish with.

Best Inline

This may be blasphemy to some, but my pick is a <$30 Eagle Claw.  In part because the category is still developing in my opinion.  You’ve got cheapos and nearly $100 reels that perform very similarly, so price vs. performance is all over the board.  I’m a huge fan of the idea and theory of inline ice reels, but in practice, many I’ve tested are cumbersome, poorly balanced, and promote rather than prevent tangles.  The Eagle Claw inline is no worse than the rest, with a great price tag to boot!

Best Walleye

Shimano’s been doing this part of the category really well for a long time, and I’ve owned Sedona 500s for just as long.  Step up from the Sienna, and you get some much better drags, and a reel that performs well with little fuss.  You pay more for this reel than most, but you go into the deal knowing what you’re going to get.  You could even step up the lineup to Sahara and Nasci, but the Sedona is my pick for all around walleye as I own a few.

Live Bait/Deadstick

Baitfeeder reels are really nice for hanging a deadstick, whether in the house or on open ice.  The idea is that fish can run without feeling the reel/rod (you adjust the pressure with a tensioner knob), then when you’re ready to set the hook, flip the switch from bait-feed mode to anti-reverse and drill ‘em.  These are new on the market, and though I’ve used previous editions, I have no first hand experience with these actual reels.  I’m going with four brand new Okuma Avenger ABF-500’s this year for what it’s worth.

Best Bang for the Buck –

I had a chance to use the Daiwa Q-series 750 reels last year and was impressed with each of the models.  Most importantly, the 750 size is a real sweet spot that allows slightly larger spools, meaning less ice-line memory.  Best of all, it does that without being overweight.  Speaking of, heft is comparable across the board with Shimano and others, though the quality at the lower price points was especially notable when put head to head vs. other manufacturers.  Not to mention, the handles have a push-button fold, so you can easily compact them for storage in a rod case.  Sounds simple, but it’s a luxury to have your rod case shut well!  Drags are pretty smooth for reels $50 or less, and the high end version is sharp looking and a performer.  I don’t think you can go wrong with any of them, and would pair the QR750s on panfish setups, with the QG750 and QZ750 going on my walleye setups.

Again, these will likely edge out the Sienna for price vs. performance, as Daiwa’s track record has been damn good as of late, but with no durability testing over time we’ll have to see. 

Honorable Mention –

The Pflueger President is a good reel, but IMO gets somewhat lost in the mix of quality Shimanos, up-and-comer Okumas, and the new Daiwas.  If you’re a Pflueger fan, buy with confidence, it’s a good reel that I’ve had ice success with.