Ice-Out Crappies

It’s been an odd spring, and for that matter, and even more peculiar winter.  Open water in the southern part of the state has been around for a few weeks, while in the north, there’s still ice, albeit a poor version of it, clinging to memories of a winter that wasn’t.  Early season panfish bites are a rite of spring, typically happening in mid-late April for most lakes in the state as a precursor to the May opener.  This year due to the unseasonably warm weather, I’m happy to say, we’ll probably have some bonus time, with crappies already snapping in the shallows of Southern MN.  Here’s a few things to keep in mind when tracking down a good spring crappie bite.

Water temperature is a key contributing factor to everything crappies in the spring.  Cold nights below freezing, cool-water runoff from melting snow, and heavy cloud cover can all contribute to the death of a seemingly un-killable bite.  As black-bottom bays and rock-laden shorelines store what solar energy they can, crappies flood to the shallows as water temps hit 45 degrees and above.  In most of the lakes I fish, this seems to be as close to a “magic number” as I can find in helping to predict not only locations, but mood of the crappies I’m after.  Anything south of that value, and shallow water crappies become much more rare and hard to find.  Even after locating them, you just don’t see the large congregations of fish that are willing to eat like you do in the 45-50 degree range and above.  That said, spring is a rollercoaster of conditions, full of false-starts, short intense feeding periods during warm weather, and then eventually spawn and post-spawn behavior.  Your best bet is multiple trips that allow you to track changes in water temperatures, such that you don’t hit before the front end, or after the spawn.

Regarding location, when warm water is scarcer in the early season, those shorelines that are even a few degrees warmer can be full of fish.  This is true even when they lack good cover, provided you’re fishing the warmest water in the lake and it’s still early.  Black bays on the north side of a lake are a good start, and don’t hesitate to fish shallower than 5 feet, especially in systems with poor clarity.  Even as water temps rise into the 50’s, fish remain shallow, feeding on baitfish drawn to the warm water and emerging life that’s brought upon by warm afternoons and an even more aggressive sun angle. 

Cover is king for pre-spawn crappies, and while any wood or timber is good for finding them, brush is better.  An isolated log or stump may hold a few fish, but large concentrations of fish will be found where they can bury themselves within and along brush piles.  Unfortunately, most anglers miss the bonanza by fishing only around the edges, rather than within the heavy cover.  Occasional fish are to be had this way, but to do well in these situations, you’ll need to be prepared to fearlessly fish inside of the heavy stuff, not just around the edges.  For that reason, especially in darker, more turbid water, I’ll fish 8lb test mono or heavier, as small jigs and small line are an exercise in brush-fishing frustration.  In northern natural lakes with broad and shallow shorelines, timber can be hard to find, so crappies focus on bulrush and pencil-reeds for cover.  Whether wood or vegetation, getting in the middle of it seems to pay dividends. 

What to use is an important factor during this time of year, with water temps again dictating presentation and lure selection.  Especially early, the temptation is to fish fast and cover water to find larger schools.  Just coming out of winter, locations can be a mystery, and bobber-fishing shallows is simply too slow for most anglers.  That said, especially during the early season, crappies will rarely chase to eat moving baits presented on the edges.  Fish with floats, and use meat.  Crappies are carnivorous little beings, and you’ll be surprised how savagely they’ll strike a minnow offered on a jig with hair, tinsel, marabou, or flashabou.  This larger profile requires some aggression, and hookups seem much more sure as crappies are required to fully inhale such a presentation.  Keep in mind however, that bluegills which can be found in the same areas this time of year, are less likely to be able to eat such baits.  I have been pleasantly surprised by large perch, especially when fishing backwaters bites, that will be more than happy to eat a 1/32oz jig with a minnow.

Plastics bites are still to come, but typically require warmer conditions yet.  It’s unfortunate that minnows are best fished when your freezing fingers would otherwise want you to use artificials-only, but it seems like warm weather and glove-less hands are about the best predictor on when to start looking to retrieved plastic presentations.  For this reason, bring bait until moving presentations readily out-perform more stationary live-bait options. 

It’s a great time of year to be on the water.  Wait till a warm afternoon, and pick apart the shallows until you find some fish.  Keep it simple, have fun with it, and save the ultra-serious stuff for later.                

Walleye Line Selection

Line Selection for Walleyes

Fishing line for me is like shoes for my wife.  I need different kinds for every occasion.  Braid for throwing hard-baits, leadcore on the trolling rods; to the point where heading out to buy some line gets confusing.  Ever get to the retailer and stare at that kaleidoscope of pretty shapes, colors, and brands, wondering which ones you’re going to try this year?  Eenie, meenie, minee….NO!  Stop.  We can do much better than randomly stringing up whatever has the most convincing packaging.  This stuff’s important.  Don’t skimp on the most direct link between you and the fish, and don’t leave your selection to chance.  Here’s how I get ready for the season.

Inspect – Hard lines like braid and leadcore can be fished for much longer than people realize, even after the dyes that color the fibers fade.  I’ve got some Sufix 832 on rods that I’ve had for about 3 years, and though it’s slightly faded, it performs just like it did when I put it on the reel.  Deterioration, separation of the fibers, and fraying are what makes me toss it.  Mono and various polymers have a much shorter spool-life, so as a general practice, I replace annually at least.  I know many tourney fishermen and guides that re-spool as often as weekly.  The key with these line types is to look and feel for grittiness, hard kinks, and excessive memory.   Leadcore holds up well, but is simply subject to a bigger beating with it always being near bottom.  Look for small loops of protruding lead coming out of the braided sleeve, and replace when you start seeing more than just a few of them.

Select – Think situation-specific here.  How do you like to fish?  I’ll admit, there is an element of personal preference here, but I’ll highlight the line I spool up with, and the applications it excels with. 

·         Nano braid – Early season is about pitching shallow, and has the potential for long casts.  Nano is superior in situations where you need to get small baits a good ways from the boat, like light jigs in wind.

·         Superline/Braids – I’m a big fan of the sensitivity and low-stretch of these line-types, so I fish them on the bulk of my rods.  Jig-fishing, live-bait rigging, and even bottom bouncing can be improved with these lines, so I usually buy bulk spools of 10-20lb test.  Why so heavy?  Because braids can, in smaller diameters, be too small to effectively cast hard baits and even jigs without tangling or wind-knots.  The effect is exacerbated in a stiff breeze, or with baits that tumble on the cast. 

·         Fluorocarbon – If you fish braid for walleyes, your fluoro leader material should always be handy.  In most applications, I’ll have a 3 – 6’ fluoro leader tied off of my main-line braid with an Albright Special or Uni-to-Uni knot. 10lb Sufix is what I’ve always used, and if you buy 100 yd spools it’s a real value compared to the smaller leader, pony-spools.

·         Mono – I’ve always got at least one or two mono rods in the boat, typically with hi-viz coloring, and I reserve it for fishing jigs in current or for crankbaits if I’m having hook-up issues.  Mono doesn’t cut the water like braid, and provides more lift to jigs in moving-water situations.  This translates to smooth and contiguous bait movements rather than sharp “bop, drop, and plop” jigging movements.  Because I’m typically working wing-dams, wood, or other structure in a river, I prefer something that’s extra abrasion resistant. The problem with most mono is the high-stretch, but this Advance mono I use has cut back on stretch-big time, so it’s alot closer to fishing a braid than it is a traditional mono.

·         Leadcore – The newer Advanced leadcore dives deeper, is thinner, and is more sensitive than standard leadcore, so it gets the nod from me.  At a 7 foot dive per color vs. 5 foot per color, the Advanced means less line out to get to the desired depth.  Smaller diameter means I can fit more line on smaller reels without having to go to sizes typically reserved for Great Lakes Salmon or Saltwater.

Detect – Strike detection is different for the various line types as well.  Due to the stretch of mono, I’m more of a line watcher, and I also am heavily reeling on the hookset to take that rubber-band effect out.  For braid, there are bites where I’ll actually pause, just to make sure fish have a jig fully inhaled.  For the most part however, strike detection on the hard lines is much easier than with mono.      

Do yourself a favor too; try one spool of one of the major categories outlined above, and mix it into the rotation.  If you find yourself pickup up that rod more often and enjoying everything about the line, you’ve got a winner.  Your new favorite line might not be something you’ve ever fished with, and those old “tried and tested” versions you already have great faith in were never to be until you tried buying them, and tested them out!